SOAVE PREVIEW: Origin, style and values

By Isabel Ferran


An intensive two-day programme last May guided wine professionals from a wide range of countries (Australia, Japan, Germany, Austria, France, UK, Italy) through an amazing overview of Soave, not only presenting the 2014 vintage, but also offering a vertical tasting to prove this great Italian white wine’s longevity (The Origins 2013-1999). It was also a chance to discover different terroirs and producer signature styles within the appellation (The Style) and embark on a worldwide tour of volcanic islands (The Values: Cabo Verde, Santorini, Madeira, Lipari and Pantelleria). Similarly, over the Colognola ai Colli dinner with producers, some 2013s could be enjoyed before getting a first glimpse of the 2014s the following day along with winery visits (Pagani, Coffele, Filippi, Borgo Rocca Sveva).


Contrada Salvarenza 1999 (Gini Vini) Soave Doc Classico: an explosion of pleasure with a complex, expressive nose of fruity olive oil, nuts and sweet spices like cinnamon followed by a rich, sweet sensation on the palate of peaches in syrup and long persistency, with plenty still to offer. A great wine.


Monte Ceriani 2005 (Tenuta Sant’Antonio) Soave DOC: golden hue, very expressive nose of toasted hazelnuts, chestnut honey and pine nut with an elegant structure, medium body and long finish on the palate driven by hydrocarbon notes. Outstanding.


Other noteworthy wines include: Vigne della Brà 2006 (Filippi) Soave DOC Colli Scaligeri, Vigna della Corte 2009 (Corte Adami) Soave DOC, Danieli 2012 (Fattori winery) Soave DOC.


The weather during 2014, with heavy rainfall during the summer months and a short lapse of time between veraison and picking, intimates at aromas such as saltiness, dominant citrus fruits versus mature fruits and floral scents, with marked acidity. Our 3 picks for different styles from the 2014 vintage are:


La Capelina 2014 (Franchetto Antonio) Soave DOC (Roncà terrarossa, basalt soil): mineral (hydrocarbon, flint) with exotic fruit (mango, papaya) but not exuberant, just a silky, fresh palate that is low in alcohol.


Cimalta 2014 (Corte Adami) Soave DOC Classico: fresh, precise aromas (apple and pear, fennel, flint).


Monte Majore 2014 (Le Albare) Soave DOC Classico (black soils in the Monteforte area): Chablis in style, showing lemon curd and smoky notes (yeast) with a balanced structure.